2009. augusztus 23., vasárnap

Correct mix ratio

Imagezoo
Ok, I know that is very important to use a correct mix ratio..... BUT WHAT IS EXACTLY A correct mix ratio?

Here's an easy way to determine the proper consistency for l/p enhancement products:

1. Use a clean brush to make a normal bead.
2. Dip the brush totally onto the dappen dish to drink up as many monomers as the hairs can.
When taking out the brush, gently pull down one side on the dappen dish.
3. Place the wet brush onto the very top of the powder, and draw a little line. The powder will stick to the hairs, becoming a bead.

Place the bead to a clean nail tip, placing it directly over the center of the tip.

Watch the bead for 10 seconds:

- Does the bead begin to settle and flow out almost immediately?
- Does the height of the bead drop halfway or more within 10 seconds?
- Does the bead seem to lose most of its original shape?
- Can you see a ring of excess liquid around the base of the bead?
- Would this bead be difficult to control, or would it flow into the skin surrounding the nail plate?

If you answered YES to any of the questions above, your bead is probably a wet consistency. Nail enhancements made with excessively wet mix ratios are prone to develop tiny stress fractures, cracks, and lifting near the cuticle area or sidewalls. Also, discoloration becomes more likely, and there will be an increased chance of developing an allergic reaction to the product.

- Does the bead melt out fairly slowly and have a "frosted glass" appearance?
- After 10 seconds, does the bead hold a smooth, dome like shape?
- Does the overall height of the dome drop only 1/4 of the original height?
- Does all of the liquid stay in the bead without a ring of excess liquid around the base?
- Is the bead easy to control, and does it retain its shape once its placed?

If you answered YES to all of the questions, you are probably using a medium mixture, so CONGRATULATIONS. Make sure you always stick to this procedure. You will be much less likely to having problems.

- Does the bead hold its original shape and/or melt out very little?
- Does the bead height and shape remain unchanged after 10 seconds?
- Does the bead look lumpy or have a crusty appearance?
- Is the bead difficult to control and shape into place?

If you answered YES to any of these questions, you are probably using too dry a bead consistency. A dry mix ratio can cause the product to undergo massive lifting as well as brittleness and discoloration.


Doug Schoon: Nail Structure and product chemistry

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