2009. augusztus 31., hétfő

Home care recommendations

Would you like to increase your profit up to 30% with the same work?

Ask your distributor for mini sizes of common use products, such as mini oil, mini hand cream, what can fit in a hand bag. Keep some new 240 grit file for home care recommendation, and buy some extra bottle of the most popular polishes.

Recommend them for your clients to home use  for a little extra profit to your business..

Forget the lifting parts forever

1. Proper mix ratio:

- use a medium wet bead. Neither too dry, neither let the bead not be too wet.

2. Perfect preparation:

- Skin remain on the nail plate: cause lifting for sure

- Gently buff the nail plates surface with a fine hand file. Pay extra attention the parts near the surrounding skin.

-Only one thin coat of primer needed. Primers are heavier than prep products, cannot vaporize that easy. If primer remaining near the surrounding skin, the product will mix with it, and change it. Extra tip: Touch the primers brush hairs with a paper towel, and sponge up some primer.

- Once prepped the nails, follow with apply the product in 20 minutes. If not, the nails need to be dehydrated again.

3. Proper product application:

- - do not touch the skin with the product, or the brush.

- - look at the brush size. Don't use too big brushes.

- - maintain, and fill in the nails regularly

4. Shaping:

- too thick product will causes lifting!

- build up the arches of the nail: let it be the highest in the middle, and keep thin in every direction (towards the nail-bed, towards the sides and the free edge).

5. Keep away mechanics effort:

• reduce length with scissors or tip cutter

• improper use of electric drills

• heavy files

2009. augusztus 29., szombat

The problem: LIFTING

Problems and solutions...
...which can occur not only with beginners

The problem: The nail crack, break, or get out in one piece

The basis of the problem: The artificial nail does not adhere properly to the natural nail. If there are lifting parts, its easy to „pull off” the nail enhancement in one piece.

The solution: There are three different reason to fix the problem. The first and most common reason (which I could see not only with beginners at the salon work) is that the product (gel or liquid/powder bead) touched the clients skin.

Many newbie nail tech are afraid that they cannot cover zone3 evenly, finally they touch the skin with the product. The root of the problem is in the PREP proceed: push back cuticles, and remember that there could be skin near the lateral sidewalls. Don't scratch up this skin with your file or drill, because its not safe, and you cannot be sure that there is no skin remaining on the nail plate. Never touch the skin with the sculpting brush.

Another possible reason for the adhesion problem, if there are oil, dust, or other chemical remain on the surface of the nail plate before product application. If you use cuticle remover, wash it off thoroughly, push back cuticles, and gently file the nail plate with a 240 grit hand file. The nail plate would not be shiny. If there are shiny places on the prepped nail plate, the product would not adhere properly, and will cause lifting.

The other side of the problem can cause lifting: if you want to prep well, and overfiled the natural nail plate. You may know the rule: you must gently file the nail plate to ensure proper adhesion. But did you know: if you overfile the nail plate, that become smooth and thin? Rule No2: The product can not adhere well to a smooth, glossy surface. That's why irritated, overfiled natural nails „pull out” the nail enhancement, cause massive lifting.

Did you know? The fingernail plate is made of about 100 layers of dead, flattened keratin cells.
Only the very top 4-5 layers of plate needs to be removed to create good adhesion.

2009. augusztus 23., vasárnap

Correct mix ratio

Ok, I know that is very important to use a correct mix ratio..... BUT WHAT IS EXACTLY A correct mix ratio?

Here's an easy way to determine the proper consistency for l/p enhancement products:

1. Use a clean brush to make a normal bead.
2. Dip the brush totally onto the dappen dish to drink up as many monomers as the hairs can.
When taking out the brush, gently pull down one side on the dappen dish.
3. Place the wet brush onto the very top of the powder, and draw a little line. The powder will stick to the hairs, becoming a bead.

Place the bead to a clean nail tip, placing it directly over the center of the tip.

Watch the bead for 10 seconds:

- Does the bead begin to settle and flow out almost immediately?
- Does the height of the bead drop halfway or more within 10 seconds?
- Does the bead seem to lose most of its original shape?
- Can you see a ring of excess liquid around the base of the bead?
- Would this bead be difficult to control, or would it flow into the skin surrounding the nail plate?

If you answered YES to any of the questions above, your bead is probably a wet consistency. Nail enhancements made with excessively wet mix ratios are prone to develop tiny stress fractures, cracks, and lifting near the cuticle area or sidewalls. Also, discoloration becomes more likely, and there will be an increased chance of developing an allergic reaction to the product.

- Does the bead melt out fairly slowly and have a "frosted glass" appearance?
- After 10 seconds, does the bead hold a smooth, dome like shape?
- Does the overall height of the dome drop only 1/4 of the original height?
- Does all of the liquid stay in the bead without a ring of excess liquid around the base?
- Is the bead easy to control, and does it retain its shape once its placed?

If you answered YES to all of the questions, you are probably using a medium mixture, so CONGRATULATIONS. Make sure you always stick to this procedure. You will be much less likely to having problems.

- Does the bead hold its original shape and/or melt out very little?
- Does the bead height and shape remain unchanged after 10 seconds?
- Does the bead look lumpy or have a crusty appearance?
- Is the bead difficult to control and shape into place?

If you answered YES to any of these questions, you are probably using too dry a bead consistency. A dry mix ratio can cause the product to undergo massive lifting as well as brittleness and discoloration.

Doug Schoon: Nail Structure and product chemistry

2009. augusztus 22., szombat

3D flowers

Cominance transition 3D flowers

There are two secret of the 3D porcelain flowers:

1. Make drier balls, as you make for sculpting. You can’t take under control the wet product on a shiny, well balanced nail surface.
2. Practise, practise, practise…

The bead:

To make a mix colored bead, first push down your brush into the liquid, and swipe off both side on the sidewall of the dappen dish. Place the achieve of the brush to the white powder. Allow the brush to catch up a tiny bead, than quickly move to the other colored container. Place the hairs of the brush to the other color powder, and allow to catch up some.


Place the bead on the nail, where you want your flower to be. Wait a minute to settle, than work on a nice shape and position. Push down one side of the flower-leaf. That will be the centre. With the hairs of your brush, make a teardrop form from the bead.

The other leafs

Follow to create another flower-leafs, using the technique bellow, in a circle.

The centre of the flower

Make a smaller bead with yellow, and gold glitter powder, using the technique bellow to mix different colors in one bead. Place it to the centre of the flower, and press down a little. Work with your brush to create a ball. Once it is on the best position, wait to set.


Create tiny balls, in a half circle shape, or put some shiny stone, whatever you want to make your flowers more beautiful.

Here is the finished design

Correct usage of liquids

3. Myth:

The liquid itself perfect for smooth the enhancements surface.

The truth: To use the liquid merely taking risks with a dangerous chemical reaction, and totally useless. When you absorbed the liquid and the powder with your brush, the polymerizing begins promptly. At this time the product is not able to allow even more liquid already.

If you try to bring a little more liquid into the bead, the unnecessary liquid leaks in to the soft tissue surrounding the nail, and makes an opportunity for the development of an allergic reaction. This explains, why doesnt work to bring more liquid to the prodeuct neither to make the product softer, neither to smooth the enhancements surface.

The monomer (liquid) and the oligomers (gel) may never be touched the skin (neither guests, neither yours). In as much this happens, it makes an opportunity for the development of an allergic reaction.

2009. augusztus 21., péntek

Sculpted french or glitter nail l/p

1. Proper PREP

Push back cuticles.
Gently file natural nails surface with a 240 grid file. Double check the plate near the skin, and on the free edge area.
Cleanse and dehidrate the nailplate.

If needed, use Primer in one coat.

2. Place the form under the natural nails free edge. Avoid gaps between the form and the natural nail.
3. Sculpt the free edge

With a medium wet ball, build up the free edge area. Build it with only one ball.

Place the ball to the form and gently push up each corners. Smooth out the entire zone.

With the tip of your brush work on the smile line.

Build up the centre of the nail.
With a medium wet ball, build up the stress area. Gently push the product to the sides, and smooth out.

Build up zone3. Avoid to touch the skin with the product or with the brush.

Work thinly in this area.

Pinch the half settled nail

Finish the nail with a 100-180 grid file
Smooth out with a buffer

With a drop of oil buff to a high shine

Nails: Gyorgyi Bertus, Hungary

The problem: bubbles

There are tiny bubbles in the freshly sculpted nail


- Improper sculpting technique
- You mixed the gel in the jar, made some air bubble
- The gel is old, or didnt stored correctly
- Improper brush technique


- Dont play with the gel too much during product application. Never touch the nail plate with your brush: move the hairs on the very top of the gel, and build the arches
- If you mix the gel in the jar, do it with slow, cautious motions, avoid making air bubbles
- Before product application, pick up some gel with your brush, and wipe out on a clean paper towel. This prevents that air bubbles remain between the brushes hairs.

2009. augusztus 20., csütörtök

Help! Ist ALLERGY!

The rules to prevent allergy:

● Change often your paper towel, during work. Once after modellizing, and before finishing

● Do not touch the skin with the sculpting brush

● If you dont use, pull the plastic cylinder onto your brush hairs, to cover them. Place it to your drawer

● Avoid dust: build the nails with your brush, and minimalize fileing

● Always use a proper mix ratio

Visit your doctor if you observe an irritation or allergic reaction on yourself (bring the used substances, and show the doctor their combination –fin din MSDS or INGREDIENT seccions)

Studets competiton

Agnes Magda (Hungary)

How long can I wear my nail enhancements?

#2. Myth:

The natural nails have need the enhancement wearing periodic discontinuance, to rest and let them breathe.

The truth:

Natural nail made from dead, flattened cells pressed together tightly. Cannot breathe, neither to feed, and doesnt make metabolism processes. Ont he natural nails surface, there are many microscopic channels, to move the oil, and water inside it. Water/oil balance is a first key in natural nails life.

The myth comes, becouse many nail technicians overfile the natural nail plate, occure seriously damaged, thin, weak nails. This type of nails cannot hold nail enhancements – need some rest to regenerate.

A wll balanced enhanchement set, safetly fills, proper prep doesnt weaken the natural nails: as they are covered with a tough product, they are more likely to grow, and avoid traumas of every day life.

You can wear your enhancement as long as you want.

2009. augusztus 19., szerda

The Nail Plate

The nail plate is mostly made of keratin, the same chemical substance that hair is made from. Keratin is a specia protein that creates the bulk of the nail plate. In nature, there are over 30 different types of keratin, ranging from very soft Hungarian down to extremly hard desert turtle shells and even rigid porcupine quills. Keratin is a very tough and flexible material well suited to withstand the rigors of the environment. Ancient peoples relied on their natural nails as tools as well as for protection. so their nails had to be tough and durable.

Collagen and keratin serve similar functions, but for differing parts of the body.

Collagen is the building or structural protein for skin, and keratin is the structural protein for nails.

Like all proteins, keratin is made of long chains or stands of amino acids (uh-MEE-noh acids), joined together like pearls on a microscopic necklace. A typical keratin stand contains btw 300 and 500 amino acids linked into a long chain. These since chains prefer to exist as loosely coiled strands. Almost two-thirds of the keratin found inside nail cells exist as extremly tiny, coiled strands. Dozens od these coiled strands stack neatly into tight bundles creative tiny fibers or fibrils of keratin. These fibrils can be seen only under the most powerful electron microscopes. At these extremly high magnifications they look like tiny whiskers embedded in a semisolid gel. All of this is encased in a clear sac to create a nail cell. These fibrous filaments are so narrow that a bundle of 2,000 would only be as thick as a single human hair. Even so, each fibril contains approximately half a million amino acid molecules, and each nail plate contains hundreds of millions of fibrils. Thats a lot of amino acids is each nail!

Did you know?
The fingernail plate is made of about 100 layers of dead, flattened keratin cells. Toenail is thicker and can have up to 150 layers. The nail plate is also often referred to as the natural nail.

Doug Schoon: Nail Structure and Product Chemistry

Nail Art from a man

Robert Olah (Hungary)

Problem: Its hot!

During the curing process, there is a hudge, hot feeling int he nail plates.


- If natural nailplate is damaged, or you overfile the natural nail, during the PREP, client will feel, that UV light burns up her nails.
- The sculpting gel or the finish gel were too thick.

- The clients hand are near the UV bubbles.


- During PREP, never work on the natural nail plate a stronger file than 240.
- Ask the client, if she feel burning, take off her hand out of the lamp for a few secounds. Than, the burn feeling is gone during full curing time

- Sculpt the nail with more, thinner layer

The First Nail Competition in Wien

Sculpting GEL nails:
1. Elvira DURMIC
2. Katalin HAUER
3. Daniela KRJNETA

Liquid/powder nails:
1. Barbara HUBERT
2. Ivonne FIGULI
3. Sabine KARDINAL

Nail Art:
2. Robert OLAH (Hungary)
3. Andrea SUREK

Problem: Gels flow away

Gel flowing away – nails are amorphous, their surface uneven, arches arent build up correctly.

The Problem:

- The sculpting gel or the finish gel are too thick.
- Maybe you were working on too much nails ont he same time, without set them in the UV lamp, so they could flow away.

- After modellizing, before put the nails into the lamp, you wait too much time. Maybe your client watched them, or she was looking for something. Never let them wait before put nails to the lamp.

- If you store your gels on a high temperature (beside a warm lamp, or a radiator), their consistence becomes more fluent, you can work with them difficultly.


- Sculpt the nails from thinner layers, and set every layer int he UV lamp, for 10 secounds. Than put the nail for a maximum cureing until another 2-3 minutes if you were ready with all of the nails

- To fix the problem: file the surface of the nails onto a desired form, before you apply the top gel.

- Do not store gels on high temperatureHint: Sculpt with your brush, not with your file!

Hint: Sculpt with your brush, not with your file!

Myth and truth - white spots

1. Myth: White spots on the nailplate means vitamin deficiency

The truth: White spots, which calls Leukonychia patches, people correlate with the deficiency of calcium and other vitamins. The appearance of the patches is not linked to the deprivations of vitamins and minerals however. What causes them? These white spots are fresh nail cells that could not finish the flatten process. A trauma, improper manicuring may cause it, or usually damaged nail plate.

Did you know?

The lunula is more white, than the other parts of the nailplate. This is because of that, new nail cells did not finish the keratinization yet. The cells are full of an intercellular space liquid, which leaves in the course of the process, yet, the cell walls create the transparent nailplate disk with a layered construction being pressed to each other tightly.

2009. augusztus 18., kedd

12 Things, what you want to know about nail business

1 Dont believe, thats easy! Its not that easy, how you saw an experienced nail technician' work, or how it looks on the stage।

2। Dont think that you will earn a lot of money until the beginning with this। Not so. The first few month, Im sure, you will not profit highly from this job.

3। Be persistent. You have to stay int he industry at least 1-3 years, to build up a strong clientel.

4. At the beginning, you will spend some empty time at the salon, without serving a client. Everybody had this period of her carreer. Fill these hours with practicing, or build your connections: invite a guest, who is waiting for her next service for a free polishing, or a hand massage. If she liked it, sure she will catch you at her next visit.

5. Find a mentor, and visit her during work, for some year. Dont change your workplace often, unless you see that the incoming guests' number decreased.

6. Be strong. If you are oversensitive or you give up your aims easily, this job is not for you, trully। Sometimes guests are cruel. Not less some of the salon owners, or colleagues.

7. Dont think that you already dont have to learn more about nails, after you got the certificate qualification. Those who think that stop in a low technical level, and never becomeing a high quality nail technician. To be a nr1 nail specialist, you have to work hard, and learn more, after school. Find as many courses as cou can, visit trade shows, ask, talk, and subscribe for a good magazine for nail techs.

8. Its important, that love the people. If you are bashful or dont like to meet new people, it will be expedient to make changes in this characteristic of yours.

9. During the school, practise as much as you can. You can increase your skill level quickly, and you may make some mistace (and learn how to solve them) what beginners mostly do. So, at the time, when a paying client will come to you, you will start to work with that knowledge.

10. You can never learn enough. Visit different schools, courses, and workshops. Watch other nail techs during work, always looking for new substances, techniques, tricks.

11. Watch, how the stars work! Look at a professional nail techs work of, attend road shows, work. Sometimes you may not learn what to do, but you will see what NOT to do..

12. Enjoy sculpting nails. If you are genious in your passion, and you can do it perfectly, you will never work in your life a moment.

My carreer in pictures

2005, Brisa show, Budapest

2009: Almond show, Pecs


Up: With Doug Schoon
Down: With Susan Cox

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